Motorbike Tour, Part Deux

I decided to rent a motor bike again today to see parts of island I hadn't seen during tour 1. Of course my first stop was to see my baby elephant - she was fine and still fascinated with my mustache. No pics because you have already seen her.

#198 - Wat Chalong is the best known and largest buddhist temple on Phuket Island. This is me in front of the wat's major temple - it is dedicated to a famous monk who help establish buddhism on the island and its first temple here - very unique temple structure and impressive!

#199 - Wat Chalong is really a complex of temples. This is a typical temple structure (unlike the one above) that is somehow dedicated to elephants. All the elephants you see in the pic (as well as many others not shown in the pic) were all brought and donated to the temple by followers - most are large wood carvings!

#200 - wow - I can't believe I'm up to pic #200! I decided this one should be something momentous! So here it is - me and the BIG GUY! He was HUGE - over 200 kilos which means 400+ lbs! Although I've been close to tiger cubs - I have never been this close to an adult, unneutered male tiger before - who had NOT been de clawed or defanged!! This was a "tourist gimmick" offering at the Phuket Zoo. The experience was really intimidating - I couldn't stop thinking about TV shows such as "When Animals Go Wild"! In hindsight - this was probably a dangerous thing to do and I probably wouldn't do it again! But he acted friendly and kinda purred when I petted his side.

I hope all had a nice Thanksgiving feasting with friends. Tonight I am going.out to dinner with some folks I met and treat myself to a famous Phuket lobster!

Holiday Wishes, Thai Political Problems, and a Reminder

I hope that. this email finds all well and that everyone is ready to feast tomorrow! Happy Thanksgiving to all!

The Thai political turmoil continues - now all major airports are closed - Bangkok, Chaing Mai, and Phuket. All domestic and international flights have been cancelled. No one knows how long this will last - thank goodness I have no near-term flight planned and this will only last a short time. All this at the beginning of Thailand's high tourist season!

I wanted to also thank those of you who have already sent Linh "American Christmas" cards and pictures (especially pics of familiesn decorated homes, streets, and stores)! Special thanks to those that had their schools' students send her cards!
All others, please take a few minutes to get/send Linh a Christmas card that conveys the spirit of an "American Christmas". I know that she would/will really appreciate anything that you might send. It takes about 2 weeks for an envelop to arrive there and postage is about $1.

Thank you so much for helping convey the spirit of "American Christmas" to Linh.
Happy holidays to all!

David

Ed.: Write to David for Linh's address.

Tsunami and Food

I did a 3-dive excursion/trip today. It started and ended with very long 2+ hrs in a minivan, then on a boat for 1+ hrs to the first dive site. Fortunately, we backtracked as we did the subsequent 2 dives - so we were less than 20 mins from the dock after our 3rd dive. Basically the dive sites were disappointing - many, many small but no large fish, much of the coral was dead, dives were relatively shallow @ 78', 50' and 38'. Its was a fun group though - as most diving groups are. A bit unnerving was the fact that they served beer and fruit in the minivan - most were pretty much out of it - some on the drive there and all by the time we returned to Patong. Btw - I never take my BB on dive trips because of likely damage (getting in/out of and riding in boats).

Since arriving in Phuket, many emails have asked are there any evident remnants of the tsunami? Short answer is no. But I have noticed that all structures near the beaches are new and they are still building new ones. The most obvious remnant are the tsunami evacuation signs and sirens which are everywhere - like the one in this pic.

Note the b-suit - not new but finally dug deep enough in my bag to find it!

Many others have asked what is "real Pad Thai like"? It's pretty good and on Phuket Island you get your choice of shrimp or chicken for the same price. This pic is of pad thai that I get at a open-air, beach side restaurant where I am quickly becoming a regular - always includes 6 large shrimps! That's a banana shake which along with mango, papaya and pineapple are my staple drinks of which I consume massive quantities daily. All are made with fresh fruits. Costs of the pad thai and shake = averages about 110TB (Thai baht) or just under $3!

Phuket, Thailand - The Great Motorbike Tour

Today I rented a new motorbike - 230 TB (Thai baht) or $7 for 24 hrs. I had no real itinerary and just took off - the only plan being to stop wherever something interested "appeared" AND trying to remember to drive on the left NOT right side of the road!. I could not believe what I first stumbled upon!

.Elephants were the first thing that I saw - positioned on the roadside to advertise an "Elephant Trekking" enterprise. Of course, I immediately stopped. For a rip-off 100 TB (about $2.50) they would allow you to take pics. This is me with 1 of 6 elephants they have. She was a darling and like all elephants I've met up close, she had those soul searching eyes. Too bad the mahut put his finger over the camera lens - it's the only pic I had - so decided to keep it.

And she so happen to be the mother of this 9-month old baby girl. This little girl explored my entire body with her trunk. Her trunk was most fascinated with my mustache and nose which she explored incessantly with her trunk. She also enjoyed me blowing in her "nose" making a high-pitched shriek each time I did so! I spent about 30 minutes "playing" with her and her fuzzy little body!

The big tusker in the background is "Daddy Elephant" - a very unfriendly and un-neutered bull kept solely for breading purposes. One of the nearby females was in estress (sp?) and big guy was going crazy - and having him where he was probably dangerous for anyone nearby.


Karon Beach is one of the many beautiful beaches on Phuket Island. I stumbled upon this viewpoint after seeing the elephants.
Btw - that's the "Big Buddha of Phuket" on top of the highest mountain in this pic - see next email for details.


Karon Wat is one of the many Buddhist temples I visited on my motorbike tour. As was the case in Buddhists wats I visited in Vietnam and cambodia - the monks invited into their temple to listen to the head monk's chants and prayers - which I did for about 20-30 minutes. Anxious to hit the road and explore, I reluctantly declined their invitation to join them in one of their meditation sessions.

The Big Buddha of Phuket" (that's really its formal name!).was erected based on the dhamma "To see him is to know him." Standing approximately 120' tall and constructed of relatively small (6"x8-12") pieces of white marble, it was erected on the highest mountain top in Phuket - so that all can see and therefore know him. It is terribly difficult to get all of the big guy in a pic with someone standing near the statue. This is the best I could do.

Here's another pic of the big guy by himself. The white marble against the bright blue sky was quite imposing!

Thai Buddhism is founded on "3 jewels": Buddha, Dhamma (teaching), and Sangha (monk). Thai (and perhaps all) Buddhists' Dhamma (teachings) say that "To see him is to know him". It is because of this dhamma that you see so many, many Buddha statues.

It was nice to see protected rain forest in the mountains on Phuket Island. Teak and mahogany were prevalent - even included some ancient ones on the unharvestable hillsides. Unfortunately, I saw no wildlife except minabirds (sp?) Which are as prevalent as pigeons in the US.


I was also surprised to see many rubber trees being harvested. They are harvested just like maple trees in US except here they use baggies!

FAQs: the Ladies of Patong

I have received many questions re the subject discussed yesterday. The 2 most recurring questions and the best answers I have for each are below.

Why do these "ladies" chose be prostitutes?

Most of the ladies do what they do to make enough money to pay for health care (for themselves and families), school costs, and material things such as motor bikes. As such most do it for only a short time - but may do it off and on as money needs arise. This is what I was told anyway - I have no first hand knowledge one way or another.

Why are Thais so permissive?

Again, based on what I've observed and been told, much of the pervasive permissiveness I believe can be contributed to 2 factors. Most Thais are Buddhist. The Buddhist religion "condemns" few things. Instead, the Buddhist religion focuses on what one should (rather than should NOT) do, such as respect all life.

Another factor is that Thailand has been a major western tourist destination for decades, and western tourists are always looking for prostitutes. Combine the above with the fact that much of the Thai population are relatively poor and the "oldest profession in the world" will flourish wherever such conditions exist. And such conditions can be found all over the world - including the US!

Ladies of Patong Beach

Since I began my journey, many of the "Journey" group (males and females) have asked questions about prostitution - hence the recurring prostitution FAQs. These individuals have also repeatedly asked for related pics. I have yet to include any prostitute- related pics for two reasons: 1) fearing I will lose it or it will be stolen, I do not like to carry my BB at night, and; 2) my BB night pics leave much to be desired. Given that the prostitute pic requests have continue - hence this 2-email series.

The grand entrance to the prostitution bar area of Patong Beach. There are also many restaurants and shops in the same area.

Thailand is known for its gay friendly environment and straight/gay prostitution. I linked-up with a German lesbian, Renata, at dinner last night who comes to Patong Beach alone at least once yearly for "sex vacations". Renata, attractive/medium build/natural blonde/late 20s, agreed to introduce me to the sex night clubs of Patong Beach - but no pics of her because she is a closet lesbian!

The ladies stand in front of the bars - most of which are open to the streets/walkways. Ladies can be paid to accompany you for the night - 1000-3500 baht ($30-$100) for the entire night/24 hours PLUS a "bar fine" of 100-400 baht ($3-$12) paid to the bar for the drinks you won't buy her when you leave with her. Renata explained that the ladies get to keep all the money you pay them - there are no pimps per se.


Ladies in front of a typical bar on the Patong Beach strip. Many of the bars are not open to the street and have no ladies in front - these have "shows" inside - most "shows" being g-string only and totally nude "go-go" girls.


More Patong Beach bar ladies. They come in all shapes, sizes, and their attire varies from tight jeans/blouses to very skimpy/revealing "cocktail dresses". Their ages? Some could easily pass for early teens but are no doubt probably late teens/early 20d. Some but very few are obviously late 30s and appear to have led "rough lives".

Renata explained that only about 20% of the female ladies are bisexual - none are full lesbians. Interestingly, there are numerous shemales and most work the bars that cater to straight males - there are only a few bars that are staffed totally by shemales.

Phuket Island, Thailand

Patong Beach where there were actually people on the beach! Clean, fine white sand and clear water (Andaman Sea) about 87F. Chair, umbrella and table are about $2.25/day - and are rented by beach side "snack bars". I had food "delivered" to my beach chair by one of the many street vendors located on the street that parallels the beach - terrific ginger chicken, asparagus and gratis watermelon slices for about $1.75! There are only 2 hotels on the beach located on either end of beach where there are few people or street vendors - and they are very expensive. Fortunately, my hotel is just 1.5 blocks from the center of Patong beach.


Me at the Patong Beach "snack bar" and my chair/umbrella location. This will probably be my "beach home" while in Patong.

"Sawasdee" from Thailand

Having just arrived in Bangkok, means that I have just completed the first leg of my trip from Saigon, Vietnam to Phuket Island located in southern Thailand.

Took some time here to get through immigration - but at least that is done. But, I don't pick-up my luggage and go through Thai Customs until I get to Phuket!?!? Ugh.

I now have a 2.5 hour lay over before catching my next flight from Bangkok to Phuket. Will touch base with you again when I get settled into my Phuket hotel - Aspery Hotel on Patong Beach.

UPDATE: I made it to the airport and successfully negotiated my taxi fare to hotel where I am now - on may out for real Pad Thai!

Today's Flight Information

As always, to enable people to find me should something happen, below is info re my flights today (Nov 16th)from Saigon, Vietnam to Phuket, Thailand - all flights are on Thai Airlines:

11:25AM, flt TG681, Saigon to Bangkok, arrive at 12:50PM

4:05PM, flt TG217, Bangkok to Phuket, arrive 5:25PM

I will reconnect when I arrive in Bangkok - assuming data services and Blackberry are in working order!

Sad Saigon Departure

Tomorrow, Sunday, November 16th, I will be leaving Saigon for Phuket, Thailand. This was a very difficult decision for me to make because of the wonderful people I have met during the almost 3 months I've used Saigon as the "base camp" for my Southeast Asia travels.

It is indeed ironic and strange that the Vietnamese Communist bureaucracy has both helped and hindered my Southeast Asia travels. It has helped because it is the only Southeast Asian country that I know of that does NOT require a an airline ticket to leave country as a prerequisite for getting a visa. This fact has allowed me considerable flexibility re scheduling to suit my whims and desires. However, current circumstances beyond my control give me few options. Specifically, I entered Vietnam with a 5-month, multi-entry visa that I got last June at the Vietnamese Embassy Consulate in Washington DC. It expires on November 18th and specifically states that it "Cannot be renewed or extended". I thought that all I had to do was leave Vietnam before the visa expiration and I could get another visa to return. Evidently that is not the case. Immigration authorities here in HCM City say that "back-to-back" visas cannot be issued. Problem is that the authorities can or will not be specific about what constitutes "back-to-back" - 1 day, week, month, or year!? It appears that decision is up to the Vietnamese visa issuing consulate (outside of Vietnam) where I apply for the visa. So, I am left with no alternative other than to leave Vietnam and apply for another entry visa outside the country - which I will probably attempt to do in Bangkok, Thailand.
As I said above, I have met some wonderful people in Vietnam. These have resulted in life-fullfilling and what will also be life-long memories.

My most memorable Vietnam experience will undoubtedly be the first person I befriended in Saigon - Linh Pham whom, at her request, I fondly call Shine. I will forever remember and be inspired by her intelligence, dreams, tenacity, humor, and infectious, beautiful smile. This is a pic taken at the farewell dinner that she and her family invited me to the night before I left Vietnam. My immense respect and strong feelings for Shine will always be with me. I can only hope that someday I will be able to make many of her dreams come true. I love her very much in many ways.

Hoang "adopted me" as "his American tourist" soon after I first arrived in Saigon. As such, he has been my motorbike driver for almost 3 months. I have met his entire family including his father who worked for and showed me pictures of him with US Army forces in Saigon - while simultaneously his wife was, unknown to him at the time, supporting the Viet Cong! Only because of her support of the VC during the war (for which she has a certificate), they were able to maintain ownership of their house after Saigon fell. Because of Hoang's considerably strong street-learned-English skills, incredible knowledge of Saigon's ins/outs, I have saved considerable $s, and learned much about Vietnamese culture and intimate details about both war and post-war history. This is a pic of Hoang and I with his wife Doa at her street coffee-cig stand - where I have had many, many Vietnamese iced coffees and heart-to-heart conversations with Hoang and others while sitting on miniature stools at a miniature table. I consider Hoang a brother and would recommend his services to anyone visiting Saigon!

Giao Nguyen is an American/Vietnamese who was one of the Vietnamese exodus boat people who, after months in an Indonesian refugee camp, made his way to the US. Last May he returned to Saigon where his very sick mother and sister have owned and operated a successful styrofoam manufacturing company. He hoped to convince his mother to return with him to the US for medical care - which leaves much to be desired here in Vietnam. Thus far, although she is confined to a wheelchair and in very poor health,, she has only recently agreed to leave Saigon - a city she has seldom left. This is a pic of me, Giao and his girlfriend at a farewell Peiking duck dinner in Saigon's Cholon District (Chinatown). Giao's girlfriend is the ONLY formal. Communist Party member I have met since being in Vietnam - Vietnam population is just over 100 million of which only 2M (2%) are formal party members. In her early 20s, born and raised in Saigon, she has an English degree from Hanoi University and is a Vietnamese to English translator for the "leading communist party newspaper" in Saigon. She is the only Vietnamese person I have met whose feelings towards the US are luke warm at best - she would very much like to visit Beijing but has no interest in visiting US!? Conversely, Giao is very much an American, fanatical Obama supporter, and politically the total opposite of her. Strange bed fellows!?

At my farewell meeting with Hoang and his family, they staged a good-humored, elaborate as well as sad ceremony during which they honored me by giving me an honorary Saigon citizenship. The ceremony concluded with me receiving proof of my Saigon citizenship as shown in this picture!

Back in Saigon

Well - the plane stopoever in Singapore lasted 2.5 hrs instead of 40 minutes. So I am just now getting settled into my hotel in Saigon.

I am glad that this day has end and that all is well on this side of the planet.

Made it to Jakarta, Indonesia

And am now on my way to HCM City with a stop in Singapore (again!!!!). As was the case with the flight to Jakarta from Saigon, going back this was supposed to be a non-stop flight. Instead, it will be stopping in Singapore which is in Malaysia. So, once again I am hitting 3 countries in one very long day!

I will check in again when I arrive in Saigon!

Lombok Island, Indonesia to HCM City, Vietnam

Good evening or morning to all. I hope everyone or at least most are happy with our new President!

Today, November 7th, I return to Saigon from Indonesia. To track in case something should happen, specific flight information is as follows:
0625AM - flight GA430 (Garuda Indonesia Airlines), Mataram (Lombok) to Jakarta - arrive in Jakarta @ 0710AM

0830AM - flight GA868, Jakarta, Indonesia to Saigon - arrive in 1250PM
I will let everyone know when I arrive in Saigon.

All take care!

Adios Lombok Island, Indonesia

thought that I should get at least one pic of the Senggigi Beach fishing fleet - most of which is in the background of this pic. They put out to the Java Sea twice daily - early AM and then again for night "light fishing" during which they use bright gas lanterns to attrack fish. The pontoon boats are only about a foot wide. Most are powered by both outboard motors (small 25 hp) and triangular sails.

Because I have mentioned it several times, I thought I should get a pic of the swimming pool. Here I am near my favorite chair. The pic only shows about a third of the free form pool.

Update and FAQs re Islam and Chop Sticks in Indonesia

I am still in Lombok, Indonesia. Not much has been going on here. Therefore, the absence of any story/pic dispatches. I have spent most of the last week or so lounging on the beach and by the pool, and spending time with some Dutch friends I've made <-- many Dutch here maybe because Indonesia was a Dutch colony for 300 years.

I am returning to HCM City, Vietnam on Friday, November 7th. There I intend to investigate my next destinations or, more specifically visa constraints associated with destination options. Probable 1st stop after HCM City will be Phuket, Thailand - but we'll have to wait and see.
I have received several duplicate questions in emails since arriving here - most of which have been related to the Muslim religion in Indonesia. Here are the most asked questions:

1. Are most Indonesians Muslims?
Yes - the vast majority of Indonesians are Muslims. The other major religion here is Hindu - they are found here and there throughout Indonesia but they are also the predominant religion on certain islands like Bali. Animism is the other major religion. And some Indonesians, like the Sasaks, practice a combination of all 3 of these religions. What's interesting is they are taught and learn the Koran in Arabic and the Mullahs' calls to prayer are all in Arabic. I have asked many Indonesians if they speak/understand Arabic and all have responded "just a little"!? It is also interesting to note that there are many middle eastern tourists here.

2. Do Muslim women wear bathing suites and go swimming in the ocean?
The answer is no and yes. I have seen only young muslim women in the ocean and they wear their tight-fitting jeans, thigh-length blouses, and head scarves when doing so - and then sit in the shade until they dry! I even saw a young women doing laps in the swimming pool with head scarf, tight-fitting jeans, and a thigh-length blouse! Btw men wear western style bathing suites.

3. Prostitution?
Not really. However, Lombok Island is known for its "Karaoke Clubs" I checked out a couple of them. Most have bars and pool tables. The girls are in a separate building found sitting on 2- and 3-teared "stages". You pick the girl(s) you want, pay 50 rupiah ($5)/hr for them, and 90 rupiah ($9) for a room for the night. The "room" is very small with AC furnished with not more than a bench with back and cushions and a legitimate/working karaoke system with television!? The concept is that you sing karaoke to one another in the privacy of these rooms. I have heard that a lot of intimate "touching" goes on but absolutely no sex - that is forbidden and they have many very large bouncers around to enforce the rules! There is even a karaoke place that caters to middle easterners who evidently prefer "heavy" girls. I met and played pool with the madam of one of these places - who spoke good English, was articulate, and a good 8-ball player. She explained that most of the girls come from less inhabited islands, that they are provided room/board, and keep half of their hourly rates. All of this was very, very weird to me - and a total turn off.

4. Weather?
This is the end of the Indonesian high season - so moderate, short daily rains have started. By mid- or late-November it will be raining most of the day. The temp hits the 90s everyday - remember this is < 100 miles south of the equator.

5. Do they use chop sticks in Indonesia?
No they do not. They use knifes, forks, and spoons as westerners do. They also eat many things with their hands - including rice which is eaten with most Indonesian dishes. It is weird seeing so much rice and no chop sticks!

6. What about some info re where you are staying in Lombok?
It's a 4-star resort called the Senggigi Beach Resort located directly on the beach on a peninsula of about 15 acres of beautifully landscaped property - see 1st set of pics I sent from here. It was the first major hotel on Lombok originally built in 1987. It has about 160 "rooms" most of which are 1-story 4-bungalow clusters, 2 bars, 2 restaurants, and 1 large swimming pool. Service is terrific - I have met most of the 230 people employed here. My bungalow is about $47/night including breakfast and all taxes (that run about 22%!).

That's about it from here. I will be in touch again after getting back to Ho Chi Minh City. All take care