Tet Means Off to Relatives' Houses

It is traditional for people to visit other family members during the first day of the year. The Phamily took me to with them to visit 3 different family homes.

This is a pic of Linh wearing her normal motorbike attire. And yes - it was hot - about 90F! Vietnamese women avoid exposure to the sun - their belief is that the whiter their skin the more beautiful you'll look! So - they go to what I consider extreme measures to present their skin from tanning (getting darker). Note that Linh is even wearing gloves along with her hooded sweatshirt! She also has another jacket covering her legs. Face masks are worn for 2 reasons - prevent exposing face to sun & counter the smog (which really isn't that bad in Saigon.

Fruit & "Rest Stop" on Saigon Streets

I couldn't resist capturing this odd combination of Vietnamese street "events". As you know, fruit vendors are common - this lady is selling whole & peeled/sliced portions of mango's.
Note that while his mother buys some mango, the little boy "relieves himself" curb side. There are very few public restrooms - so this is a common street scene for both boys & girls - and at times even for men & women!

Anyway - I thought it was a rare and "cute" combination of events to have actually caught on camera.

Old Saigon

Many old, French-colonial-era houses in Saigon have balconies where old women & men often perch themselves for hours to "people-watch" the street below.

Saigon's Tallest

Above is a pic of a typical Vietnamese gas station - note there are no cars! Left background is the 68-story Bitexco building - now the tallest building in Saigon <-- they had just started building it when I came to Saigon in 2008 and have just recently completed it. Fyi - most floors overlook the Saigon River and the building is 98% vacant.

Saigon Traffic

Saigon street traffic has not changed - it is still incredibly congested both day and night!

Reconnecting With "Lost Friends" #2

This pic is me treating Hoang's family to a feast at one of their favorite neighborhood restaurants. From left to right are: Hoang's wife, Hoang's sister (6+ months pregnant with first child), Hoang's father, Hoang, me, and Bill (the US Texan I helped Hoang's sister "find" 3+ years ago & now married to Hoang's sister and living with her in Saigon). Btw - the restaurant was next door to a tennis club (in background of this pic).

Saigon Landmarks - Ben Thanh Central Market

Some of you have noted that I have not yet included any Saigon "postcards" in this blog series. So - above pics are of Saigon's famous Ben Thanh central market. Built by the French in late-1800's (when Vietnam was a French colony = French Indochina) to centralize & control (primarily sanitation) a marketplace where the French could purchase daily meat (fish, pork, poultry, beef, goat, horse, etc), produce & fresh breads, it still thrives. Product offerings have expanded considerably since it was established 120+ years ago and now includes everything from live frogs to T-shirts as well as many food stands. Albeit many tourists visit this market daily, its primary customers are Vietnamese. Although not air-conditioned, it is always surprisingly cooler inside than it is outside.
FYI - French Baguettes long ago became and still are very much Vietnamese favorites as well as an integral part of their daily cuisine (just like the French)! And they are delicious - every morning I have a fresh baguette (with fresh, homemade jams) and fried eggs for breakfast.
My hotel is located just 2 blocks from this market ("behind" from pics' perspective). So - this is my primary "hood" in District 1 of Saigon.

Welcome 2012 in Saigon

I welcomed the 2012 new year with the Pham family - Linh, her brother ("Dragon Boy") and her father (Vinh) <-- Linh's mother was working. This is us having dinner/coffees at a cafe on a main street in Saigon.
Most Asians "party hardy" during Tet - the Chinese new year which is January 23rd this year. However, the Western (our) calendar new year is quickly becoming a popular "party night" in Saigon. It was great seeing and spending time with the Pham family again!
I am still adjusting my body clock - switching my day hours to night hours and vice versa!

Saigon Ladies

I make new friends almost everyday. I met these ladies today. They were taking a survey about Vietnamese cuisine as part of their English class. They commented on how friendly I was to them & they took many pics of me with them. So - I decided to ask them to take a pic of me with them! That is the Saigon Opera House in the background - built by the French in the late-19th-century. It was great fun talking to these ladies!

3 Saigon Food/Drink Favorites - Breakfast

Many of you have asked about my favorite Vietnamese foods, eating/drinking habits and food costs while in Saigon. So - hear is some basic info.
Breakfast is included in my hotel costs - and I start each day with it!. There are 2 breakfast choices daily (always the same) - a "breakfast stew" or "fried eggs". I always get the "fried eggs" as pictured above. This IS a Vietnamese breakfast comprised of 2/always hard-fried eggs, a few sliced fresh vegetables, & a large/fresh/toasted bagette.
Unlike the Vietnamese who normally make a very common carry-with-you-breakfast-sandwich by putting the eggs & vegetables on the bagette & adding fish sauce, I eat eggs with fish sauce and bagette separately - putting butter & jelly (normally provided to westerners) on the bagette. It's a hardy breakfast that I look forward to consuming each day!

Changing Saigon Skyline 1

Many of the familiar historical buildings are still standing in Saigon - reminders of Vietnam's French colonial days when Vietnam was "French Indochina". One of these is the Saigon Post Office - it has been in continuous use as Saigon's main post office since it was built by the French in 1886.

Changing Saigon Skyline 2

Another familiar French colonial structure is Saigon's "City Hall" that was built by the French over an 8-year period (1900-1908).

Changing Saigon Skyline 3

Regrettably, many of the French art deco style buildings in Saigon have disappeared - making room for mega-structures such as this 68-story office building being constructed. on the Saigon River - it will be (is) the tallest building in Saigon. It was not there when I left Saigon 1 year ago. What was there were several beautiful art deco style, 3-4 story homes/apartments. Now - they are all gone & I really regret that I did take pics of them when they & I were there at the same time.

May 11, 2010 - Back to Saigon

12,000+ miles & 33 hours of travel time got me from DC back to Vietnam!
My first flight was 5.5-hour flight fr DC to L.A. The above is a bad pic of the Grand Canyon taken during this travel segment <-- strange yet appropriate first pic of this journey.
I was supposed to have a 45-minute connect time in L.A. - however, because of delays in DC, I had only 8 minutes to connect to a 6900+-mile, 11,5+ hours flight from L.A.. to Narita airport in Tokyo - where I had no BB data services - hence no email updates from there!?
I had a 1.5-hour layover in Tokyo followed by a 6.5-hour flight to Saigon. Made it to Saigon aka Ho Chi Minh City aka HCMC on schedule. Unfortunately, my 1 checked suitcase with my iced insulin in it did not make it. But I have enuf meds with me to last 1+ weeks. Hopefully my "lost luggage" will be delivered way before that!
I miss the cool nights I just left (was 26F or about -4C Monday AM.. It will be in the mid-90s everyday here!
I will NOT miss the oak pollen & my allergies! No oak pollens in the tropics!

Meds Made It Too!

4 hours after arriving at my hotel in Saigon - American Airlines delivered my "lost suitcase"! Insulin vials were stilled chilled - so no problems!
I am still drained & exhausted - trying to recoup from travel & adjust to time change/lost day!

Tet in Saigon

Tet is the Chinese lunar calendar new year. This year, the lunar new year is January 26th which begins the year of the ox. It is THE annual celebration in Vietnam and most Vietnamese have a 3-day holiday January 26th through 28th. All government offices (normally open 7 days a week - common in communist countries where no religions are recognized), banks, and shops are closed.
I had to quickly discover/learn many Vietnamese Tet customs and traditions.
The week before Tet, the streets are all decorated with lights and shoppers. Custom dictates that all Vietnamese (rich, poor, and everyone in between) buy new clothes just before the new year. Another tradition is to clean everything from top to bottom - houses (inside and out), motorbikes, bicycles - EVERYthing should and is expected to be spotless when the new year arrives!

Saigon streets' Tet light decorations. Most Tet decorations have a flower theme. The overhead lights in pic 291 are yellow lotus flowers. Sorry that these pics are so crappy - but the ole BB doesn't take very good night shots.

Most Vietnamese have Tet eve dinner at home with immediate family. Linh's family invited me to join them. As always at their house, the meal was comprised of delicious traditional dishes - about 8 of them! My BB camera was very temperamental that evening - so this pic stinks - but it is the only one I have of the occasion and I was not going to delete it.

Fortunately, before going to Tet eve dinner, I consulted my cultural advisors (hotel staff that know me) re Vietnamese Tet eve traditions. They explained that as a Tet eve dinner guest, I was expected to take flowers as a gift to the male head of household. Because Vinh Pham is from Hanoi (north), the appropriate "flower" would be something called Hoa Dao. When Vinh picked me up, I asked him to stop at one of many street vendors selling flowers and trees. He was elated when he discovered what I wanted to do and proceeded to select and negotiate the price for a potted Hoa Dao tree. This is a pic of me and him with Hoa Dao tree in background. Btw - he negotiated a really good deal!

After dinner, Vinh invited me to be the first person to visit his home the next day - new year's day - for breakfast. I agreed and later learned that it is a Vietnamese suspicion that the 1st person in the year to visit your house is responsible for bringing your household good (or bad) luck the rest of the year! Evidently many Vietnamese, including Vinh, take this very seriously and carefully select and invite the first visitors of the year to their house. I was told (by my cultural advisors) that this was a great honor. So I arranged for my motorbike driver to pick me up the next morning and drive me to the Pham's house. I also brought "lucky money" in a red envelop for "Dragon Boy" - Linh's young brother <-- another tradition my cultural advisors explained to me. I arrived at the Pham's house precisely at the requested time - 10AM. Before eating breakfast, Linh's dad asked me to "go upstairs" with the family - I dutifully followed them not having any idea what was happening. We went into Linh's dad's/mother's bedroom where a tasteful "shrine" to Linh's dad's deceased dad, grandfather and great grandfather (with framed pics of each) was on a dresser. In front of the pics were a considerable number of plates of food - what ended up being "our" delicious 5-course breakfast. We each lit incense sticks and placed them in a jar in front of the pictures. The traditional Tet breakfast is always first offered to the fraternal ancestors - before it is consumed by the living. <-- this is all something Linh explained to me afterwards. After a delicious breakfast at Linh's house, I was unexpectedly invited to join them while they visited there relatives in Saigon - another Tet tradition. I was surprised and honored to be invited to such a personal activity. The first and eldest family member is always visited first - in this case it was Linh's maternal grandmother whose house was already packed with other family members already when we arrived. This is a pic of me with some of them (grandmother is only woman seated - in left of pic). The dogs were great - "Phu Quoc" pure breds with hair on their backs like Rhodesian Ridgebacks!

We left the grandmother's house (12 in total) and went to her favorite Buddhist pagoda to give thanks and request a happy/prosperous new year - a traditional new year's day custom. This is a pic of me and some of the family members at the pagoda. Vinh, Linh's father, did not enter the pagoda grounds - being from Hanoi where he was born and raised, he is not a religious man at all. Conversely, Linh's mother's family are from central and south Vietnam and practice Buddhism.

We visited 2 more sets of family members (with mountains of food at each stop) and then Vinh drove me back to my hotel. What I thought was going to be a 1-2 hour breakfast ended up being an all day set familiar events of which I was a very honored guest. Truly a wonderful family and memorable day.

After a long Tet new year's day, Linh's father invited me to go to Vung Tau with him and his son aka "Dragon Boy". It appeared that this was something he and his son enjoyed doing "away and freedom from the women". Again, I was honored - even if for only 2 days and 1 nite at considerable expense (we hired a car and driver to take us).
Btw - Vung Tau is the real "China Beach" located about 75 miles from Saigon on the South China Sea. Sounds like a short distance but it was almost a 3-hour trip in a car! The last time I was in Vung Tau was 1967 on a 2-day-in-country R&R during the war. It is very different today from what I remember.



I had befriended "Dragon Boy" during the past few months. What was different in Vung Tau was that he and I spent considerable time together with and without his father present. Dragon Boy's English is almost as limited as my Vietnamese - forcing us each to communicate in the other's native language. As a result, we both increased our vocabularies in the other's language. He is a great as well as very patient and demanding teacher.

Chuc Mung nam moi - Happy New Year - the year of the ox!

The Saigon Sillies

Smokers will be interested in the new Marlboro box packaging. Non-smokers will be interested to find the more-blatant-than-in-the USA-warning-label! Umbrella? One’s got to protect ones’ cigs from the sun - after all - they cost $1 a pack here!

It also shows my artsy side - don't you think!?

Saigon: The Cholon (Chinese) District and its’ Temples

#30 This is the most common "pic" taken of the heart of the Cholon District.

#31 This is the Cholon Central market. VN buy stuff here really cheaply and resell it in the Saigon central market (just 1.5 miles away) at a profit. Many VN are prejudice against Chinese and won't go near this place. When I went inside, Chinese appeared to be the predominant language.



For those of you who may not know - I am captivated by Buddhist and Daoist religions, their temples, deities, and especially old temple architecture. Many of you have seen, in my house the antique (125+ years old) teak Thai "spirit house" (miniature model of a Buddhist temple) and the Thai temple mementos I picked up while there - these (albeit they are now made of concrete) are still strategically placed on poles outside Thai homes so that the shadow of the house passes over them at least once a day <- bringing good luck and fortune to the home's inhabitants. Anyway, given my interest in Buddism and their temples, I visited several in Cholon ... #32 this is the pagoda part of Giac Lan Pagoda and Temple. It is said (but not believed by all) that this is the oldest Chinese built (in 1744) temple in Saigon. That's a status of the "female Buidda" I'm standing next to. Each floor of the pagoda has a shrine to different Chinese Buddhist deities.

#33 That's me next to the Big Guy himself!

#34 Interior pic of Giac Lam temple.


#35 Exterior of Nhi Phu Hoi Quan Cholon District - Built 1724 as 'club house'. Should note that "Hoi Quan" means "community house" - which in fact most Buddist temples are. So, many temples include this phrase/term in their names. Many believe that this should be known as the oldest Chinese temple in HCMC - but is not because it was originally built as a Hoi Quan. I could only get exterior shots of this temple - albeit I could go inside, some sort of ritual was in progress and I was not allowed to take pics. Too bad, because the interior was incredible!

The Tue Than Hoi Quan Temple in Cholon Dist was built in 1760 in honor/memory of one of the first young Chinese woman to settle in Saigon. Evidently she dedicated herself to Chinese immigrants and died very young. She is revered by the Chinese in Saigon.



#36 This exterior shot shows some of the incredible, exquisite original exterior glazed-relief tiles that adorn the temple.



#37 Pic of interior alter of Tue Than Hoi Quan Temple. All original.

Saigon Sights and a Hi, There to Cousin Jack

I have always admired/had an interest in bonsai. My cousin Jack has been growing/ sculpting/ tending/ loving or whatever one does with bonsai for years.

Personally, I know little about them except I think they are amazing to behold as well as require tremendous efforts to care for.

I have seen many bonsai in Saigon - attached pics #24 and #25 are examples. They are NOT the much smaller, countertop versions one normally sees. The explanation for their larger "park versions" is that they are true bonsai but are grown larger for display in public areas <- larger to deter thieves from stealing them. I see "gardener care takers" tending to them daily.

More FAQs;

Did you get great exchange rate for the US$2 bills that you took with you?
Background - before leaving US I was told this would be the case - so I brough $600 in new $2 bills with me. Answer = I got a little better exchange rate - but only a little. So, I have saved them and give them as gifts to "fiends". I make. Those I've given them to have all been very appreciative because they are so rare here and considered to be very good luck.

Is smoking abundant?
I found that surprisingly it is not. Less than a third of the people I see on streets are smoking. There are restaurants and even coffee cafes that will not allow you to smoke inside (where there is AC) - smoking allowed only in their outdoor seating area (no AC - which represents a strong deterent to Western smokers in hot/sticky Saigon.

Given all the traffic - isn't pollution a major problem in HCMC?
Surprisingly not despite 4M+ motorbikes! I have concluded that this probably because of the daily albeit short-duration downpours. Air quality here is as good if not better than downtown DC.

Are the girls' marriage propositions you described serious or just flirtations?
Many, especially wait staff and female patrons I run into in cafes and on the streets, are, for the most part very flirtatious and open. Are they serious? The relatively few VN I am actually able to converse with say they are serious as a heart attack and state that all I have to do is follow-up, e.g., present a dinner or coffee/cafe invitation. At this point in time - I'm too cowardly and shy to "follw-up". BUT I certainly do not mind and recipricate flirtations!

Are you going to be able to leave for the next country since you're having such a wonderful experience in Vietnam? Would you marry Linh and stay in the country?
Afraid that I will move on - but will first ask Linh if she wants to go with me! <-- hummm - maybe not bc that might be interpreted as a marriage proposal. But - move on I will - first to other parts of Vietnam before going to another country. But I will return to Saigon before leaving for next country and will make it a point to say goodbye to my friends here before leaving. Doing so will be a sad experience. Great getting and we really enjoy your emails, stories, and pics! Must ask why you put such effort into your emails? To paraphrase something I said in an email to someone else - my emails/stories/pics enable me to document my travels at the expense of boring many! But I also have a desire to share with those that I care about - remember I am traveling alone which makes it kinda weird and even lonely at times. It's a cloudy and rainy day today. Good time for me to investigate/plan my egress from Saigon to other Vietnam locales. #26 - I have become addicted to these sweet-waffle-crepe-like goodies that a few street vendors prepare - they are also favorites of many Vietnamese who have no specific name or term for them but EVERYONE knows what they are <-- according to Linh and others. They are similar to very fresh but much thinner, unwrapped/rolled waffle ice cream cones. I get some daily from the same street vendor in this pic - she and I have become buds and aggressively argue EVERYday over price! In pic - that is her small wood-fire + cooking iron to the right and fresh-cooked products in plastic bags to the left. Entire set-up (including lit fire and hot grilling iron) can be simultaneously uplifted onto her shoulder and moved in seconds <-- which she must do several times a day bc shop keepers don't like here in front of their stores. And, yes that's me in background attempting to grab her products undetected! I never succeed. #27 pic title says it all - it was in here that I had my 1st VN fried spring roles (that is in VN - I eat many in US!) and where my favorite food stall and "other girlfriend" are located!






#28 I had to make a pilgrimage the previous crib of Thieu and Ky. For those that never knew or forgot, they were the last 2 Premiers of the Republic of Vietnam (RVN) <-- a country that ceased to exist when Saigon fell to the North Vietnamese Army in 1975. #29 This REALLY is what the Saigon power grid and commo infrastrure looks like! Really - throughout Ho Chi Minh City!

Saigon FAQ

I have received many identical/similar questions in response to the emails I sent yesterday. So, I thought I would share responses with all.

Has Vietnam been what you expected?
Although this sounds like a simple and straightforward question - it caused me to pause and do some inward thinking. The purpose of my journey is to experience/re-experience places I've been to before and those that have always been of interest to me. "Experience" to me means seeing/smelling/tasting/hearing/feeling each place I visit. This includes both the good and bad associated with each locale. Therefore, looking at it in a philosophical as well as realistic way - I cannot avoid "experiencing" each place I visit, therefore every location will unavoidably meet my expectations. Further, given this "expectation", such a journey cannot help but be truly gratifying.
This gives me the "warm and fuzzies" feeling we all crave - right!?

Is the traffic really that bad and How do you cross the streets?
Yes it is as bad as it looks - see attached picture #20 - 24/7! How do you cross the streets - think virtual or live Donkey-Kong!

Do you have favorite spots in Saigon?
I have become a regular in a few. My fav coffee/bistro is located in a somewhat high-rent area - I visit it daily - not only for good coffees and food - but for the smile, intelligence, curiosity, never-ending queries about all things, and friendship of Linh (see ahhached pic #21. She is a college BA sophomore doing a 3-mo internship at the cafe. I help her with English and she helps me with Vietnamese. I have become quite fond of her - and I hope she has of me. We've exchanged email addresses and I look forward to keeping in touch with her.

What is the mix (make-up) of the tourist you've seen?
Most are Aussies, Kiwis, and Brits. The remainder appear to be about equal parts Koreans, Japanese, Russian (and/or other Slavs), Philippino, and who I think are Malaysians/Indonesians. There are VERY few Americans - but a few pop up every now and then.

Isn't it weird being in a Communist country?
The in-your-face-Communism I anticipated isn't present. Most of the gold star and sickle flags/banners have disappeared too <-- evidently they were artifacts of "National Day" celebrations which occurred the day before I arrived. On the surface, HCMC appears to be an open, free capitalistic state - with everyone freely and willingly pursuing open niche opportunities. However, I have asked some people about this topic - their responses have always been hesitant and appear self-censored. So, who knows what goes on behind the scenes? Prostitutes?
They are around - but not obvious and in-your-face as I thought they would be. None "walk the streets". Mostly, taxi/motorbike drivers offer and broker their services. Occasionally, a prostitute on a motorbike will approach you - but this has been a rare occurrence – by the way, the ones I've seen on motorbikes were babes! Major problem is hotels absolutely will NOT allow you to bring them to your room. Evidently they can lose their licenses if they do!
So, you have to go to "their place" - which is normally a very small, no A/C room in a very out-of-the-way, off-the-beaten-path locale. Although it sounds incredibly discouraging - I've been told it's "safe". Rates: "FULL, 1 hour massage" = $10, "Everything" or "Round-the-World" = $20

Pictured on the left (#22) are the folks who staff my favorite HCMC central market food stand. It was here that I had my first spring roll (isee previous pic I sent). I have been a regular there ever since - I go there at least once a day. When I appear, they all always greet me with apparenly warm and sincere smiles - and Luang (sp?), to my lft in pic, always greats me w a hug and "peck" on the neck. She has claimed that I will be "... her first and only husband".<-- I assume this means that she Catholic!?!? AND she and other crew all claim that she is 26 yrs old. True - it may be yet another instance of the Chinese-Olympic-Female-Gymnist thingy. But I look forward to my daily+ interludes with her ... and her never-ending questions about the USA, ongoing facination with my BBry - she loves looking at the pics I've taken and luvs pushing the keys! Luang and her fellow crew members, like others I've interacted with here, continue to amaze me how much we can communicate with one another for long periods of time without knowing anything about one another's languages. We really tend to underestimate how effective smiles, pointing, facial expressions, gestures, etc can be as communication tools - especially if there is sincerity behind them!