Lhasa, Tibet – Holy Potala White Palace and Drepung Monastery

Lhasa, Tibet was originally established in the 7th century AD when local ruler Songsten Gampo (c. 618-49) unified the tribes of Tibet. He designated Lhasa as his capital and built his palace where the current Potala is located. Lhasa remained the capital and Buddhist religious center for 250 years. When the king was defeated by rival tribes who established capitals elsewhere in Tibet.. From c. 868 AD to the early 17th century, Lhasa remained in the backwaters of Tibetan history. In the 17th century, the 5th Dalai Lama reinstated Lhasa as the Tibetan capital and Buddhist religious center. The current day Potala was built as the 5th Dalai Lama's palace (mid 17th century). Most of the current day sights date from this period - the early 17th century.
Since the 1950s, when the Chinese took control of Tibet, Lhasa's population has remained about 240,000 with Chinese outnumberring Tibetans about 2 to 1.
I was incredibly lucky that my guide was a 26 year old Tibetan - not Chinese as I was told and expected. He also spoke pretty good English. Our driver was also Tibetan but spoke no English. My guide did have to accompany me whenever I left my hotel. He warned me that there are many Chinese "intelligence spies" dressed in traditional Tibetan clothes spying on Tibetans and to be careful what I said when others were around.
Most of Lhasa's Chinese inhabitants are soldiers. Heavily armed soldiers in groups of 6 to 10 were everywhere 24/7 - including rooftops. Cameras were also everywhere. I and my guide were stopped 5 times by soldiers who would always first ask for my passport and visa (a separate document not contained in my passport). After questioning me, the soldiers would always drag my Tibetan guide to the side and, while pushing and prouding him with batons, ask him questions. My guide explained that he is normally roughed up when he is with Americans (never when he was with other Westerners such as Europeans or Aussies. The guide said he believed the soldiers' actions that I experienced are an attempt by the Chinese to intimidate both Americans/Tibetans and to demonstrate to all (those involved as well as those observing) who is in "control".
Today the city is clearly divided into 2 sections - western or old section inhabited by Tibetans, and eastern or new section inhabited primarily by Chinese. I stayed in and most of my sightseeing was done in the old section.
During the cultural revolution, the Chinese "removed" (aka destroyed) many of the historical structures in Lhasa. At the same time, the Chinese also killed and imprisoned most of the Tibetan monks - many of whom are still jailed. This is why most of the temples and monasteries have no monks. Those that are around are known as "lesser" (low ranking) monks.

Atop 130m-high Marpo Ri or "Red Hill" was the site of the 7th c. Palace built by the first Tibetan king. In 1645 it was replaced by the 5th Dalai Lama's 9-story "White Palace". (Karpo Potrang) Soon afterwards (no one is sure exactly when), the much larger "Red Palace" (Marpo Potrang) was added. - where the 5th and other Dalai Lamas are laid to rest. The Red and White Palaces combined are known as the Potala which roughly means "paradise" in the Tibetan language. It is considered one of the major wonders of Eastern architecture.
The Potala was the soul of Tibetan Buddhism and seat of Tibetan government and is comprise of many chapels, schools, cells, residences, kitchens, galleries, assembly halls, and tombs for the Dalai Lamas,. It was virtually a self-contained world - as it was originally intended to be. It is huge and has a commanding view of all Lhasa.
Now the Potala, once the symbol of Tibetan Buddhism and seat of government, is virtually lifeless and dormant ike a museum as it has been since the Chinese entered Tibet.
Unfortunately, interior pics are forbidden so all I can offer are exterior shots - and they don't come close to capturing the "wonderment" of this incredible, imposing structure and its spiritual significance.

Me at the foot of the Potala before making my ascent - no elevators/escalators - must climb stairs from base of mountain to rooftops of the palaces. The red and white palaces total 15+ stories and it sits on a 130m high hilltop = 100s and probably 1000+ all stone, uneven, worn stairs. AND this was my first stop in Lhasa which means I was far from adjusting to the 3600+m altitude. I suffered symptoms of AMS (acute mountain sickness) my entire time in Lhasa. My blood sugars were problematic for days!

I secretly took this pic of an exterior main entrance to the white palace part of the Potala.



Drepung Monastery, built in 1416, is one of the largest and oldest in Tibet. Over 10,000 monks resided here before the "Chinese Liberation" in the 1950,s. Sadly, with the exception of pilgrims and a few lesser monks, it is all but empty.